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Fujifilm XF10-24 mm F4 R Optical Image Stabiliser Lens

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Scroll down to see how they compare in the middle of the frame, or skip to my Fujifilm XF 10-24mm sample images. But, shooting at f4 at 10mm, the sharpness falls off towards the last quarter of the image and is particularly poor in the corners. F8 is much sharper, with only a bit of softness left on the corners. Shooting at 24mm is a similar story, with quite a bit of edge blur. A close corner crop of the image above. The focal point was placed on the dead Queen Anne’s Lace. Shot at 24mm, f/4. After I made the jump from DSLR to mirrorless, I had been waiting for the lens that would fill the void left by my 14-24mm ultra-wide to wide angle zoom. It was on the roadmap, but months away, and Fujifilm didn’t have a prime that that got even close to a 14mm full frame equivalent. 3rd party offerings like Zeiss’s Touit 12mm got us closer, but still not quite to the width I was used to, and its sharpness had been called into question. The Fuji X-Mount Lenses are all extraordinary. What most photographers don't realize is that Fuji has for many decades, just like Canon and Nikon, also made far more advanced optics, like binoculars for the military and for use in space, as well as lenses for motion pictures and television with six-figure price tags at discount. Unlike mud brands like Sigma and Tamron (or even LEICA), Fujinon has loads of experience actually supplying optics that cost more than some people's houses, and puts that same know-how into these lenses.

It is resistant to both dust and moisture and can be used in freezing temperatures as low as -10 degrees Celsius (14°F), greatly enhancing its versatility for landscape and cityscape photographers. Note: It should be noted that the X-E1, our Fuji test camera, does feature in-camera correction of CA, vignetting and distortion, and it's important to note that our results here were taken from RAW files. However, when converted with Adobe Camera Raw, as it our usual procedure, ACR carries over these in-camera corrections. It was only by converting the same RAW images with DCRAW (which does not convert the images with these corrections) that we were able to confirm this. If you predict you will be shooting on the wider end mostly and value the compact nature of the XF 14mm f/2.8 R this may be a sound alternative. In the two sample images below you may see that the overall image quality is very similar with only a slight edge to the XF 14mm f/2.8 R.

Diffraction limiting sets in at ƒ/11, but you won't notice any practical difference until ƒ/16 or ƒ/22, where we note generalized softness across the frame. I do find it strange that a lens that’s great for shooting in the outdoors is not fully weather-sealed – perhaps in late 2013, Fuji hadn’t perfected that tech yet. Lens sharpness has nothing to do with picture sharpness; every lens made in the past 100 years is more than sharp enough to make super-sharp pictures if you know what you're doing. The only limitation to picture sharpness is your skill as a photographer. It's the least talented who spend the most time worrying about lens sharpness and blame crummy pictures on their equipment rather than themselves. Skilled photographers make great images with whatever camera is in their hands; I've made some of my best images of all time with an irreparably broken camera! Most pixels are thrown away before you see them, but camera makers don't want you to know that. The Fujifilm XF 10-24mm F4 R OIS WR lens has an internal focusing (IF) system with a very quiet stepping motor. In practice, we found the auto-focus to be fast and accurate on the latest X-T4 camera. For those interested, here is the chart I originally used to illustrate the differences. The “failed to focus” on the X-E1 is my favourite part.

The problem with seeking a one lens solution for anything is it will always be a compromise at one end of the FL range, or the other. I have been blessed with a good copy of the 18-55, and that has pretty much assigned to my X-E3 as a general purpose zoom. However, on my X-T3 my daily, general purpose lens is the 16-55/2.8 It works for most situations including landscapes. If I want wider than 16mm I go to my 14/2.8. Perhaps one of these days I might buy the Zeiss Touit 12/2.8. The zoom ring is broad and rubber-coated with ridged texture for ease of use and comfort. It glides well and has a really small travel distance from 10mm to 24mm.When comparing the zoom with these primes, the decision is between convenience and absolute image quality. The primes eke out a little more quality overall, but then you’re left carrying at least two lenses, and you won’t be able to get as wide as you can with the zoom. That written, the zoom is as heavy as a few different combinations of two primes so you aren’t necessarily saving much in the way of weight. So Which Should You Get? There's also the same close-focus point of 24cm and 0.16x maximum magnification, iris diaphragm with seven rounded blades, high-speed auto-focusing achieved via an inner focusing system, and a Super EBC coating to help minimise lens flare and ghosting. If I found myself at 24mm more often than not, I would make a point of using the XF 23mm F1.4 instead as this is the weakest portion of a zoom’s range. Then I’d probably end up shooting at f/1.4 a lot more too. The zoom is not the best option for a 35mm equivalent, but in a pinch, it works and only pixel-peepers might be able to tell the difference. 18mm

What little pincushion distortion there is can be corrected for more critical use by plugging these figures into Photoshop's

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The middle focal lengths perform a bit better. At 14mm, the lens was only slightly soft at the corners, shooting wide open. 18mm had another sharp center and edges that were a bit softer than at 14mm, but better than the widest and narrowest focal lengths. Flare and Chromatic Aberration

Fujifilm has improved an already popular lens and now it has a fixed aperture ring with markings and they have weatherproofed the lens as well. The XF 10-24mm F4 R OIS WR is an ultra-wide-angle zoom lens for the Fujifilm X-series range of APS-C mirrorless cameras. This lens is a solid 8 for me. I love Fuji's lenses, and have used most of them. The fit and finish of them is usually outstanding, and the optical quality of their lenses is consistently very good, and sometimes outstanding. I would say this is not their best effort, but that doesn't mean it's a not a worthy offering. Good, useful zoom range combined with a fixed aperture, and ooooh that 10mm wide angle. You can definitely get some expansive shots with this lens. It's not the widest I've used (14mm equiv would be), but close enough and wide enough to really make some astounding images. Above left: Fuji XF 16mm f1.4 at f4, above right: Fuji XF 10-24mm at 16mm f4. 100% crops from centre of JPEGs I believe many X series owners who are interested in the XF 10-24mm f4 will be weighing it up against the XF 16mm f1.4, either as potential owners or existing ones. So in my first two tables below I’ve compared the sharpness of both lenses on the same view in the corner and centre of the image; I shot with the XF 16mm f1.4 first, then matched the field of view on the XF 10-24mm afterwards.There are two switches on the side of the lens. The first switch allows turning the optical image stabilization (OIS) on and off, while the second switch allows switching from full aperture control (A) to manual aperture control. X-T2 + XF10-24mmF4 R OIS @ 17.4mm, ISO 200, 1/20, f/8.0 Yosemite Valley, 10:22 AM, 16 May 2014. Fuji X-T1 at Auto ISO 400 and Auto DR 200, 10mm at f/22 at 1/60, Athentech Perfectly Clear. bigger.

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